on June 30, 2023
Where do I even start?
A total of 130 kilometers while gaining 7560 meters of elevation in three days looks tough and demanding on paper, the journey itself is impossible to quantify. More than the physical strain the body endures, these three days were filled with observing nature as it is and quality conversations on life and such. As I sit down fully rested and try to sum up our adventure into words, I somewhat feel like a river is bubbling through my veins and flushing my face. While this is a commonly applied metaphor, in this case, it is true.
Jamie squeezed out a few days from his busy schedule in Hong Kong to fly over and explore the trails here in Nepal while training for the upcoming UTMB race. Instead of taking a jeep and looking for trails in other regions, we decided to run Kathmandu’s backyard, the ‘Helambu/Langtang’ area, right out of the hotel gates. After a heavy breakfast, heavier stares from the hotel staffs, and a short visit to ‘Budhanilkantha’ temple, on a bright Saturday morning, we set off on our ‘Langtang Trail Running Camp’ towards ‘Shivapuri National Park’, our entry point to the three days running trip. In less than an hour or so the songs of birds and the echoes of the forest consumed the honks and chatter of the busy city. We were free now.
With our permits in place and getting the feel of the trails, we start jogging/hiking around the forest of Shivapuri. Trying to avoid the weekend hikers we take alternative routes through oak and rhododendron wonderland, stone steps, ridges, and some jeep tracks. Mesmerized by the clear blue sky and the meadows and fields underneath it, we somehow missed ‘Chisapani'(our lunch stop!) but devoured a massive plate of noodles at ‘Pati Bhanjyang’. A couple stops to consume the surroundings and sodas, the well-trodden uphill trail brought us to ‘Kutumsang’, our stop for the night. Two massive helpings of ‘dal-bhat’ and off to bed for much needed rest after covering close to 43km. ‘Dal-Bhat power, 24 hour’, IFKYK.
The next morning we were ready for the half-ascent/half-descent kinda day and after breakfast we headed north to ‘Yurin Danda’ ridge full of excitement. The trails consisted of mostly fir and ‘end of season’ rhododendron trees as the enchanting forest takes you deep in solitude and ‘Magen Goth’ comes to rescue as the only human settlement, two houses that is! Also, Jamie’s hilarious stories and running lessons were of great company. More steep uphills and we take a lunch break at ‘Tharepati’, the highest point of our trip (3490m). The trails descend rapidly from here through the pine forest and surviving rhododendron flowers. The solitude is replaced with views of the ‘Helambu’ valley and the villages mostly inhabited by ‘ Hyolmo’ people. We call it a day around 35-40km (both our watches went mental!) at the small town of ‘Timbu’ and settle in a hotel for more dal-bhat and did we eat!
We wake up to the sound of a bus signaling its first trip for the day. Running on a paved road was not our most favorite thing to do but you gotta do what you gotta do! Jeep tracks overtook the paved roads and missing a turn took us through a farming village. Turns out Jamie just appreciates the act of farming and was awestruck by the sight of terrace farming from up close. To quote him, “My farming friends back home would have a huge hard on if they see this, I need to take a picture.” The trails were not ‘mostly downhill’ as we were told. It was a big fat lie as we gained the most altitude on this day! We ran uphill on jeep tracks and trails combined, went through thick forests, commando-styled trough bushes – contours failing to slow us down as cascades fueled us. We paced with our head torches on after the sun bid us farewell. Towards the end (some 7-10km) to our finishing line the trails were damaged and the alternative jeep track made the long day even longer!
Our profound discussion on ‘Trainspotting’ and ‘Lord of the Rings’ kept us busy on the trails. I could go on about Jamie’s stories on his Rugby days, his coaches, ultra running, his family and friends, music, businesses to name a few but I would have to write an anthology of short stories for that. But, for now all I would say is that he’s lead an interesting life and continues to do so… As we stopped for a bite at a tea house surprising open late at night, a cab comes by out of nowhere and offers us a ride back to the bus station where Sudeep was waiting to pick us up. (Ohh bless all the hearts!) After a brief talk we agree and stop our watches close to 50km. It was done as we entered the car heading to the glittering lights of the city for Jamie’s first cab ride in Nepal.
If you enjoyed reading this, please consider joining our Langtang Lollipop Fastpack Trip (October 7 – 21, 2023). Immerse yourself in the stunning Langtang valley, traverse scenic trails, challenge yourself with the rarely visited Ganja La pass, and experience the beauty of the Himalayas. Join our unique fastpacking adventure through Helambu and Langtang. Secure your spot today!
