on June 8, 2026
Contrary to popular belief, the third time is not always the charm! Picking peak monsoon for my first visit was not the best of decisions and a friend falling ill on my second time is an occurrence that might happen to anyone in these rural Himalayas. But this time the dates were calculated and was supposed to be the best time in the entire year to visit so we planned accordingly. The weather gods had some other plans! At first, I convinced myself that Kanchenjunga hates me but along the way I realized it was more about the journey than the destination which was fulfilling and also, I’ll have a reason to come back again.
Unlike most, if not all, Alice and I, both trail running enthusiasts, decided to start our journey, on foot, from Taplejung instead of getting on a jeep to the closest trailhead. Running almost 32km on the first day looking at the surrounding green hills and beautiful small villages around was a treat that we almost forgot how hot it was, almost! On the second half of the second day we were greeted by lush rhododendron trees, our entry to the Kanchenjunga Conservation Area. Now the motor vehicles and construction sounds were drowned by the rush of Tamor river and the local birds singing in all their glory, ahhh music to our ears. Next day, we get to Ghunsha, the only village with electricity and hot water, we stay a couple days and get ready to enter the actual rugged Himalayas. A few days in rain and snow and we get to Lonak, the last village before the north base camp for Kanchenjunga, the third highest mountain.
The weather was worsening every 24 hours as if the days were competing with each other, but somehow an hour after we got to Lonak the sun was out. The sight was something and everyone present in that small village, probably crowded around the firepit in their respective stays, came out in silence and in awe of the surrounding Himalayas. It was magnificent! The first half of the next was the same as we made our way north towards Pangpema or Kanchenjunga North BC. Kanchenjunga felt shy and hid herself among the clouds but we could see the greater ranges around. We thought we’d get a glance from the southern base camp but the weather gods and knee-high snow at Selele pass stopped us from going any further! Our adventures around Kanchenjunga were over and we headed back to the trailhead where a jeep was waiting for us the next morning.
I remember feeling defeated and a bit disappointed as we returned back from Selele pass and telling myself I must be cursed for this region. In the snowy path back down too foggy to see any further than 10 meters, I saw a silhouette of a bird half my height in the distance. I had never seen a Danphe that size! Rather than fleeing away swiftly, the bird waited and left slowly as I got closer. I take this as an omen; my time will come. Dear Kanchenjunga, our hide and seek continues and I’ll be back. I have a reason to.
