on December 6, 2025
This trip would not have been possible without the hard work of: Dil Kumar Tamang, Lhakpa Sherpa, Lok Man Tamang, Mendho Tamang, Mingmar Chhering Bhote, Mingmar Norbu Sherpa, and Raju Tamang, and finally the HAL team members in Kathmandu.
The plan was set: enter the Kanchenjunga Conservation Area (KCA), visit the north base camp, and traverse west to Makalu Barun National Park (MBNP) via Nango La and Lumba Sumba. The groundwork for this journey was laid back in 2023 through multiple reconnaissance trips; you can read that report here: Kanchenjunga Makalu Traverse: A Three-Part Adventure.
We entered the region just as Cyclone Montha was departing eastern Nepal – call it good timing or luck! As we moved up the Ghunsa River valley, the skies opened up to brilliant blue.
Two weather events – one in early October and another later that month – brought significant snowfall to the region, 5-6 ft on some sections. We first walked on snow during our acclimatization hike to Jannu View Point, and again on the way to Lhonak and Kanchenjunga Base Camp. There were a couple of detours caused by landslides on the way to BC. Daniel was hit by a falling rock on the return from Kanchenjunga BC. Fortunately, he got away with a bruise and a swollen ankle, both of which improved as we progressed on our journey. The section between Kambachen (tall houses in Tibetan) and the first tea house en route to Lhonak is rockfall-prone, so extra attention should be paid here.
The first leg was a teahouse setup with Daniel, Mingmar, and myself. Upon our return to Ghunsa, we met the rest of the crew and transitioned to a full camping setup.
🐕 The Traverse and the New Crew Member
Team K2M crossed Lumba Sumba in fair weather, enjoying spectacular views stretching from Jomolhari (Bhutan) and Kanchenjunga in the east all the way to Makalu in the west. We treated ourselves to yak curry at Thudam – the most delicious yak curry I have ever tasted, courtesy of Lok dai, our expedition cook.
Mingmar and I had often talked about drinking Tongba (millet beer) at his home, sitting beside the fire with sukuti (dried meat) on the side. That dream came true when we reached his village of Hongon. Many thanks to his wife for hosting us so warmly.
Somewhere between Chyamtang and Hongon, we realized someone had joined our crew, quietly bringing our number from nine to ten. A dainty, four-legged local dog had adopted us. We initially resisted giving her treats – not a good trail practice – but she stayed with us, and we eventually caved. We named her Chyamtang, after the village where she first fell into step beside us.
❄️ Treacherous Passes
Just past Molun Pokhari, we spotted fellow trekkers at a distance, walking the route from the opposite direction. I waved and let out a holler – no response – and we carried on. Though the 5,000m pass was behind us, the section from Molun Pokhari to Kalo Pokhari, while topping out at only around 4,400m, was treacherous in places due to fresh snowfall over the preceding days. The conditions forced us to pioneer a new line over a rarely used pass – the planned route was simply too sketchy: steep, exposed slopes blanketed in snow, dropping away into the Barun Valley far below. For an hour and a half we plodded through fresh snow, zigzagging up a steep slope, Mingmar and I trading the lead to give each other a breather. Much to our relief, the group made it to Kalo Pokhari in one piece, scraping snow off the ground with our dinner plates and ice axes to pitch our tents.
The K2M team successfully exited Makalu Barun National Park, though not before crossing two more 4,000m passes through the snow. We completed the easternmost section of the GHT in Nepal and finished in style by inadvertently crashing a wedding – in our defence, the celebration had spilled onto the trail – in Seduwa, where the kind hosts offered us strong Nepali beer!
We are grateful for every hard trail, every high pass, and everything in between.
Chyamtang was with us for ten days, trotting up and down snowy passes and crossing rivers without hesitation. Leaving her behind was heartbreaking.
🏃 Join Us This Spring: Kanchenjunga Fastpack
Inspired by what you just read? This spring, we’re heading back into the Kanchenjunga Conservation Area – and this time, we’re moving fast. The Kanchenjunga Fastpack is an opportunity to experience the raw beauty of one of Nepal’s most remote and spectacular regions at a pace that pushes your limits. Think big mountain landscapes, dramatic passes, and the kind of adventure that stays with you long after you’ve returned home.
If you’re ready to move through the mountains with a small, fun group led by fastpacking pioneers in Nepal, reach out to us.
