on September 30, 2024
This year’s Manaslu Fastpack marked our third edition, and it was only the second time we included Tsum Valley in our route. For those interested, you can check out last year’s trip report to learn why we decided to incorporate this beautiful and culturally rich valley into the Manaslu Circuit. Our 2024 Manaslu team consisted of Jeremy and Sudeep, while Srijan unfortunately had to sit this one out due to a shoulder injury—we missed him! Still, adventures often take on their own unique shape, even when things don’t go as planned.
On Day 0, we took a jeep to Nyauli waterfall and stretched our legs with a short hike to Khorlabesi. This was the first time the HAL team stayed in Khorlabesi, and while scouting the village, Jeremy and Sudeep discovered a charming lodge with its own trout farm—a pleasant surprise and the start of countless delicious dal-bhat meals. The following day, as we made our way to Philim, we encountered a washed-away bridge just before Dovan due to the previous night’s heavy rain. Crossing the river was risky because of the strong current. After hours of brainstorming and working with locals, we managed to construct a makeshift bridge using unused electric poles, a ladder, and stone slates. It was a collaborative effort that allowed us to continue our journey safely.
The trail presented us with some big climbs and even bigger days. In Chule, we left behind our full packs and set out early for an acclimatization hike to Mu Gumba, the northernmost permanent settlement in Tsum Valley, established in 1895 CE. Mu Gumba’s traditions blend elements of the Nyingma Pa and Kagyu Pa sects of Tibetan Buddhism, with occasional visits from Bhutanese lamas suggesting a connection to the Drukpa lineage. This felt especially significant, as HAL was headed to Bhutan after Manaslu. Coming back down, we couldn’t resist running light with smaller packs—a perfect way to wrap up another rewarding day on the trail.
Leaving Lokpa and heading toward Ghap, we officially entered the Nubri Valley, home to Mount Manaslu, the eighth-highest mountain in the world at 8,163 meters.
This year, we seized the opportunity to visit Layung La (4,990m), a pass at the Nepal-Tibet border, during our second acclimatization day. A cement border pillar marked the boundary on the Nepal side. Sudeep attempted to jump and hit the 5,000-meter mark but fell just short—perhaps Jeremy should have given it a try!
From Samdo, we originally planned to move camp to Dharmashala, but a weather alert from Michael Fagin, our trusted weather forecaster, prompted us to adjust our plans. The following day, we traversed Larke La (5,153m), the highest point on the trip, and descended to Bhimtang. It was a long and challenging day, but we reached Bhimtang by mid-afternoon and appreciated the comfort of warm food and a heated dining room.
Our final stretch from Bhimtang to Gowa was a slow, easy descent, filled with spectacular views of Manaslu and Himlung.
As we exited the trail in Dharapani, Nepal was struck by a series of devastating disasters caused by heavy rainfall, underscoring the critical need for better infrastructure and disaster response. On the drive back to Kathmandu, our team witnessed the destruction firsthand. Along the way, Sudeep assisted a woman in shock after witnessing her friend’s accident (the friend fully recovered after). With the help of locals, they got her to a nearby hospital. This experience was a poignant reminder of the fragility of both our natural ecosystems and our communities. Exploring these landscapes is a privilege, not a right.
Please fine more pictures in the gallery below.
