Cambodia by Kayak: 500+ Km of the Mekong with a Splash of Fear

Haunted by a near-drowning experience in high school, I spent fifteen years terrified of water. It wasn’t until early 2022, in preparation for a sailing trip in the Orcas Islands, that my friend Seth (a great mentor over the years, we started Himalayan Adventure Labs together, but he has stepped back now) nudged me back into swimming lessons. Overcoming that fear felt like a victory, and when Seth floated the idea of a possible kayak trip down the Mekong in 2023, I was excited but hesitant. Being on a sailboat for a few days is one thing, compared to kayaking for 20 days, 7-9 hours every day! I had prior experience rafting, but nothing of this magnitude.

Fast forward to February 20, 2024, and I was received at Phnom Penh airport by Seth. The plan: pack raft 500+ km of the Mekong in Cambodia, starting at the northern border with Laos and ending at the southern border with Vietnam in 20 days. Excited and a bit of nervousness building in my stomach, my bags were heavy remnants of the Wisconsin winter where the temperature dipped to -20°C. Phnom Penh, in stark contrast, was a sweltering furnace, the thermometer pushing past 35°C. I don’t know what hit me harder, the tropical temperature or jet lag. It felt like jet lag hit me like a rogue wave, leaving me disoriented and sluggish.

The next day, we spent prepping at our friends’ (Frances and Sueon’s) apartment in Phnom Penh. Frances, a tropical medicine doctor, and Sueon, who used to run a tour company, were lifesavers. F&S joined us for the first two days on their kayaks, their local knowledge proving invaluable.

We were playing catch-up with F&S as the packrafts proved much slower than kayaks. Compared to kayaks, we paddled more and covered less distance. Seth and I decided to swap our packrafts for kayaks, a decision with its own pros and cons.

We experienced everything from swirling whirlpools and battling heart-pounding rapids to stretches of calm water. The near 40°C heat was no joke. The relentless sun beat down, turning the air thick and heavy, making every paddle stroke a fight against the stifling heat.

But the thrill of the journey was matched only by the welcoming smiles and shared laughter of the local people we met along the way – fishing, commuting, and always eager to connect. I really enjoyed Khmer food – Amok being my favorite. The food was so flavorful, it satisfied my (Nepali) taste buds. Another highlight was seeing Irrawaddy dolphins and watching sunsets (almost every day) paint the sky in breathtaking hues from our campsite.

The Mekong was much wider than I expected, spanning 3-4 kilometers on some sections. Some hazards we encountered were rock gardens, trees, rapids (Grade 1, 2 & 3), whirlpools, shallow sandbanks, and the ever-present heat! Our touring kayaks weren’t meant for long river trips like this, and there was a possible risk of capsizing. We had a few close calls!

In the end, it took us 17 days, including the one rest day at Frances and Sueon’s river house near Phnom Penh.

This trip was totally outside my comfort zone but one worth all the efforts and turbulence. I also had ample time to think through my thoughts, which is one of the elements I look forward to during my adventure trips. This introspection led to a question: Why do I take these adventures in faraway lands (or oceans or rivers)? At times the answer might not be obvious, but my yearning to explore new horizons by pushing my mind and body has been the constant reason on all of my adventures.